Denmark – Copenhagen to Rødby Part 2

2019/08/19: 54 km to Liselunde campsite
We left our bikes at the hotel, and toured the museum and castle ruins. The castle was built by King Valdemar 1 who reigned in the 12th Century. He and his descendants were key in the early development of Denmark.

We set out for the smaller island of Møn, which has white chalk cliffs at its eastern tip. After crossing the high bridge and stopping for coffee, we realized I’d left my debit card at a cafe in Valdingborg. We discussed our options. We continued on to another lille lejrpad, well concealed in dense spruce forest, where we managed to make a very passable supper. Early to bed.


2019/08/20: 59 km back to Valdingborg
We navigated our way on roads and tracks through pasture to the top of the cliffs, and parked our bikes to descend through open beech forest. The cliffs are home to many birds, including hawks and colonies of swallows.

We rode a fairly direct route back to Valdingborg so as to retrieve the bank card which the cafe was holding for us, and the hotel manager cheerfully gave us a discount as returning customers.

2019/08/21: 69 km to Lyttesholm Nature Centre campsite
We set out in a relatively direct route to Rødby and the ferry to Germany. At a harbour coffee shop we watched the a bridge open to allow sailboats through. We reached our target lille lejrpad, tucked behind the nature centre, solid lean-tos with roll down insect barriers, and one of the finest outhouses we’ve ever laid eyes on! We parked our bikes in one of the two shelters to reserve it, before going on a several kilometre bird-watching walk through a dyked foreshore and wetland area managed for grazing, wind farms, and as enhanced habitat for migrating birds. I was only slightly disappointed not to spot the feral Exmoor ponies we might have seen.


Returning to our shelter, we met Florian who was settling in to the other lean to. He was a youthful German marathon runner, who thought he needed to carry nearly twice the weight we do in our bikes, and who only rode on the very flattest terrain.

2019/08/22: 82 km to Gromitz, Germany
Florian rose at the crack of dawn, and set off for Rødby to catch an earlier ferry than we did. We arrived to meet Gabriel, a Canadian from Baie Comeau, Québec, currently living in Geneva. We chatted on the 45 minute ferry crossing, but took different routes southward into Germany.

We’ve learned that there are controversial plans afoot to replace this ferry crossing with a fixed link (causeway, bridge, tunnel) similar to the Øresund link between Denmark and Sweden. The construction of a Fehmarn Belt Fixed Link is due to begin in 2020, although we saw signs of preparations as we approached Rødby Harbour.

Next stop: Hamburg, Germany.


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