We returned to Copenhagen by train to begin making our way south across North and South Zealand toward the ferry to northern Germany at Rødby. We had time to go relatively slowly, as we were not expected in Hamburg till the 25th. The longer distance routes are well signed, and the maps are excellent. Routes followed paved and unpaved back roads, with some double track and even single track segments through forested areas. We rode past standing stones and Viking burial mounds that seemed to appear at every turn.
These routes are well used by commuters, day riders, and tourers. We categorized the tourers into either the two-pannier or four-pannier variety, the latter more likely to be camping …at least some of the time. Most of the camping types we chatted to were either German or Dutch.
2019/08/16: 54 km to Roskilde
We stopped for coffee and a sigh of relief on the outskirts of Copenhagen. It is high season, and the number of tourists is a bit overwhelming. Along the east coast of North Zealand we met Fabien and Aurélia, who were travelling with 16 month old Noan in a trailer. We combined forces for a relaxed lunch on an east coast beach.
We arrived at the hostel in Roskilde, which is conveniently right beside the Viking Ships Museum, parking our bikes in sensible locked cages which protected them from the evening downpour.
2019/08 /17: 66 km to Tystrup Lake campsite
After spending two hours in the Viking Ships Museum, we retrieved our bikes and slogged uphill past Roskilde Cathedral where Danish monarchs have been buried since the 15th century. We understand that the funerary monument for the still-reigning Queen Margrethe stands ready, although presently covered in a shroud. Queen Margrethe is over 80 and a heavy smoker, but it still seems a bit macabre.
Having stocked up with groceries, we found our way to our first lille lejrpad. It looked more like a scout group camping area, with picnic tables in a field, and a fire pit in a large wooden shelter. Our stove was uncooperative, and dinner was a subsistence affair. We set up the tent inside the wooden shelter.
2019/08 /18: 64 km to Valdingborg
We hadn’t slept well and breakfast was minimal. We were cranky as we set out, but everything looked better after some good coffee and a kanel snegl (direct translation: “cinnamon snail”, a delicious sticky bun) at a gas station. We made our way to Valdingborg, where the low key friendly hotel looked more welcoming than the hostel. We dove into large bowls of pasta, later met a Dutch cyclist couple, and got information about the museum for the following day.
To be continued.