Kattegattleden

2019/08/06-10: 400 km
Kattegattleden is the name of the cycling route we followed that runs from Göteborg to Helsingborg, following the southwest coast of Sweden. It takes it’s name from Kattegat, the adjacent body of water which lies between Denmark and Sweden. Not only is the bicycle infrastructure fabulous in these parts, but also there is a feeling of mutual respect between cyclists and motorists. This is a refreshing change from encounters we’ve had in other parts of the world, including at home. It makes for a very relaxing ride.

We returned to Göteborg from Brännö in a torrential rainstorm with our host who was commuting to work, and had coffee while waiting for his favourite bike shop to open. I was in search of a replacement helmet, but was unsuccessful in my quest due to my odd head shape. Still, visits to bike shops are always interesting, and we bought oil, grease, and a funky bicycle magazine before cycling south as the storm abated.

We were mainly following Kattegatteleden, which is well signed, but we also had Kristian and Ingrid’s GPS track. They live in Lund, Sweden, from whence I now write, and were our travel partners in 2013 in northern Norway. The track reassured us, especially when we deviated occasionally as they had done a few years earlier.

We stayed in hotels for the four nights it took us to reach Lund. We did this for various reasons, the main one being absolutely torrential rainstorms most evenings. The holiday season when Swedes flock to the coast is beginning to taper off, so this meant there was now some accommodation available. In Bastad, we stayed at a lovely pension, the only one of several which had a room available for a pair of drowned rats. I was pretty annoyed, however, when the only parking options offered for our bicycles was in the garden, where the rain still hammered down. I was ready to express my annoyance, but Chris suggested it wouldn’t be helpful, and we retired to our hot showers.

Another rainstorm is about to be unleashed on us.

Kristian and Ingrid had suggested we cross from Helsingborg, Sweden, to Helsingør, Denmark, so as to ride south on the Danish side. We did this, and took the train from the centre of Copenhagen to Lund to arrive in time for a typical Swedish midsummer crayfish dinner at Kristian and Ingrid’s.

Here we’ve had a therapeutic dose of sociability and rest. And we’ve had the privilege of finally meeting young Oskar, who will soon turn two.

M

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