2013/08/23: Ferry and 45 km to Kjerringøy and camp N of Misten
Just as our alarm clock went, Kristian and Ingrid appeared at our tent; we weren’t far off the road, and they’d seen our campsite. We made the short crossing together. Setting off uphill on the far side, Ingrid’s bike began to have mechanical problems, and the upshot was that her internal-gear hub had failed.
She and Kristian were forced to do an about turn and took the ferry back again. They made a very slow run back to Bodø with Ingrid using her only functioning gear – the lowest. It was unfortunate for them, but good that the hub had waited till near the end of their holiday before packing it in. (Note: It was a very serviceable bike Kristian built for her from collected used parts. She really deserves a Surly Long Haul Trucker like Kristian’s and ours one of these days!)
We rode north to the village of Kjerringøy, the wealthiest trading post in Norway when it was at its peak in about 1875. Here they bought fish from Lofoten and elsewhere in Nordland, dried and salted it, and sold it again in Bergen and elsewhere. Many of the original buildings and their furnishings were there, well cared for and proudly displayed, and we were shown around by a knowledgeable guide in the company of two women who were visiting from New Zealand, one originally from the area. Later, we toured the old cemetery with them.
We rode another 10 km or so, and sat on smooth rocks by a white sand beach to revel in coastal scenery one last time, then turned south and camped at another white sand beach just before the ferry.
2013/08/24: Ferry and 52 km t o Bodø and camp 5 km N of Bodø
We crossed on an early ferry and breakfasted at the far side while drying our soggy tent. Once back in Bodø, we went to a farmers’ market, then to the airport where we reconnected with Kristian and Ingrid who had been packing bikes and gear for their flights. We walked round the harbour with them, scouting to no avail for boats that might sell us freshly caught shrimp. We ate a celebratory final dinner out at a café where Chris and I had bacalhau. This dish was developed in Spain and Portugal and is traditionally made from dried salt cod produced in Lofoten. It has a connection (cause or effect?) to the historic trade in dried and salted fish from Norway to Spain and to Portugal.
Chris and I rode north again to camp at the park we’d found two days earlier. Having seen a forecast for calm weather, we pitched the tent with an eye to good morning sun, but with no concern for wind protection.
2013/08/24: 13 km o Bodø and train to Oslo
We woke in the wee hours with the tent flapping violently. So much for the forecast. We got up at 6:00 a.m.
We rode to Bodø train station to wait for our noon departure south toward Oslo.