Terra Nova National Park

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

2011/08/13: 93km to Eastport

Joey´s Lookout

Leaving town, Daniel noticed his fraying front tire was getting worse, so he turned back to buy a Canadian Tire replacement, install it, and managed to catch up to us within about twenty kilometres. We stopped to eat our excellent lobster sandwiches (prepared by Alice) at Joey’s Lookout above Gambo.


Joey Smallwood is considered the last father of confederation for his role in bringing Newfoundland into Canada

We paused at Malady Head campground in Terra Nova NP, trying to reach Alice and Mark who might have come to join us. We were unable to reach them, so continued to Eastport and the cottage of a relative of Daniel’s who, although extremely busy with the local writers’ festival, Winterset in Summer, had generously said we could camp on his lawn. My feeling was that we were an unnecessary imposition when other places to park our scruffy selves were readily available, but we ended up cooking ourselves fresh cod in our hosts’ kitchen in the company of an amiable labrador.


Chris and I crawled into our tent on the porch, while Daniel wiggled into his borrowed emergency bivouac sack. It provided no insect protection, so Daniel ended up moving into the boot room during the night.

2011/08/14: Kayaking and and 47km to Charlottetown
P1030148We scoffed bananas and rode to the park’s visitors’ centre to meet Mark, Alice and Anna. Mark swam in Newman Sound with a snorkel and mask. These Jersey Islanders  are made of stern stuff! Daniel rented a single kayak and Chris and I got a double. This allowed us  to go out for two hours, along with Alice in one of their single kayaks they’d brought, while Mark stayed ashore with Anna.

After some time ashore chatting (and using the dryer) we three rode off southward to Charlottetown where we found a motel. Seemingly from nowhere, a cyclist appeared with an all but  unrideable bike in need of major attention. Joseph was an enterprising lad from Toronto, who’s taken the bus to North Sydney, crossed to Port aux Basques, and was heading to St. John’s to visit his girlfriend. He had come from Port aux Basques in an astounding four days, averaging 180km per day! But his back wheel had several broken spokes and what was left of his rear derailleur dangled uselessly from the chain, the derailleur hanger having snapped. After some consultation, Chris bashed the bent hanger with two rocks to straighten it, and did his best to reattach it. We’re not sure how far he got with this tenuous repair, but we suspect that if he didn’t find a bike shop soon, he’d be hitchiking to St. John’s.


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