2011/08/04: A Lazy Day
We took Olivier and Lindsay up on their suggestion of a day off and a second night of indoor comfort and good company. We did laundry, made bread, and later cycled downtown for a few errands.
When O and L returned from work and school, they packed knapsacks and drove us to Little Port in the Bay of Islands. From there, we hiked for about half an hour to Cedar Cove, with the first part of the trail seeming more like a dark tunnel as it led us through a dense forest of spruce and balsam fir. Forming a thicket like this is the only way the trees can withstand the gales that hit these coasts. When we came out to the open foreshore surrounding the cove, the ground was covered in a creeping evergreen –ground cedar–
that gives the cove it’s name. Olivier heated some home canned moose meat over a crackling driftwood fire, and served it on crackers. He’s getting a moose license this year – an integral part of the process of becoming a Newfoundlander. We watched a minke whale surface and dive as it made its way around the headland.
Arriving back at Little Port, we saw a fox, nearly black, skulking not too far from the dories where some locals were deftly cleaning and filleting their personal quota of cod — five per person to a maximum of fifteen per boat per day. The seagulls were feasting noisily on cod entrails, and the fox was waiting for his chance.
Back in Corner Brook Olivier and Lindsay fed us yet again, and we talked till quite late. I went to bed wondering what my life would have been like if I’d been born in Corner Brook. My father was sent to work here during the latter part of World War 2, and at home I have the letters he wrote to my mother in Montreal, trying unsuccessfully to convince her to move to what was then a different country. As a Scotsman who loved to hunt and fish, he must have been in his element here.
2011/08/05: 58km to Deer Lake
We rode past the pulp mill as we left town, and stopped to pay homage to the retired Newfie Bullet and its tiny associated museum.
We arrived fairly early in Deer Lake where Daniel was to meet us. Since we’d neglected to make a timely reservation at the B and B where he’d booked, we merged with him …taking over the queen-sized bed and relegating him, upon his midnight arrival from the airport, to a rollaway bed wedged into the room at our feet.