The ferry schedule meant we we arrived well after dark, but we only had two kilometres to ride to a campground. My gears were doing strange things as we left the harbour, and as I shifted down for the hill climb, my chain went off the cassette and jammed into the spokes. Sorting this out in the dark so as to limp to the campground was tricky. We set up camp in the dark and got to bed at midnight.
The next morning was spent considering the problem and executing a challenging repair ( See our earlier post: Just Bend it Back ). It was only in the early afternoon, when we deemed we’d succeeded, that we could turn our minds to enjoying our surroundings. There was just enough left of the day for a swim at the nearby beach.
Patmos is the island where St. John’ the Divine wrote the apocalyptic Book of Revelations in 95 AD. On the second day we cycled to visit the hilltop Monastery of St. John the Theologian, and it’s associated museum, and later the cave where St. John reportedly heard the voice of God and was inspired to write and to prophesy. The ornate iconography, gold embroidered vestments, and the scent of beeswax candles gave us a taste of historical Greek Orthodoxy.
We self-catered a (ahem) simple but elegant dinner at the campground that evening: Mussels cooked in butter, shallots, garlic, and white wine; bread to sop up the liquid, tomatoes on the side, and wine served in yogurt containers.
On our final morning on Patmos, we had freshly squeezed orange juice at an internet cafe before boarding a boat for Samos. We stowed our bikes with renewed care and caution.