2009/09/24: Day off in Marmaris
We’d ridden for six of the last seven days, coming from Antalya. We had a day of reading, blogging, drinking freshly squeezed orange juice, and walking. We needed a day off. Marmaris is a major tourist centre, complete with nightclubs. We amuse ourselves by observing, identifying, classifying, and speculating about other tourists.
2009/09/25: Datca 77 km
We set off from Marmaris along the hilly but spectacular Datca peninsula. In Datca, we found a beach bungalow.
2009/09/26: Day off in Datca
HAPPY BIRTHDAY CHRIS!
Much of the day was spent using the computer at a plastic table outside our bungalow, and making use of wireless from the cafe. The local tomcat adopted us and installed himself beside us, asking to be patted often.
We bought Lonely Planet in pdf for Greece, and examined an alternative to continuing north to Gallipoli along the Turkish coast. We had a dinner at a pleasant fish restaurant which overlooked the harbour and was frequented by yachting types. The peninsula is lined with coves that make it a desirable sailing destination.
Variant on Plan A
We decided on a minor change to our plans from Chris’s posted Plan A. We’d already spent six weeks in Turkey, and the Plan A route would have had us crossing Northern Greece in under two weeks. The variant gives us a better balance between time spent and in Greece and time spent in Turkey. It offers both a change of scene and a change of pace.
A challenge of this new variant is that finding reliable ferry information is a frustrating endeavour. There are several different ferry companies, and we’ve also been warned there are touts who will lie and say another boat doesn’t run in hopes that you’ll take theirs. It’s a bit of a logistical exercise. We’ll most likely work our way north across the Aegean, however, and if things get too complicated we can return to Turkey on the existing visa.
2009/09/27: Bodrum 16 km and Ferry
We made an early scramble across the peninsula to the ferry dock, thinking there was a ferry leaving at 8:30 a.m.. Upon arrival, we saw a sign announcing that it would leave at 9:30, so we settled down for glasses of tea. As 9:30 approached, very little seemed to be happening, so we made inquiries and were told that the ferry would leave at 4:00 p.m.. There may have been reduced service due to strong winds. We pedalled to the village for bread, and returned to locate a sheltered location to wait, read, and have our standard midday picnic. After a two hour crossing in rough seas, we found digs in Bodrum.
2009/09/28: Kos, Greece 31 km and Ferry
We crossed to Kos this morning, so we’re now in Greece. We’re using Euros, but Kos and the Dodecanese Islands are so close to Turkey that we don’t plan to count ourselves as having “made it to Europe” till we reach the Greek mainland, which we plan to do at either Alexandroploulis or Kavala.
We fended off few pesky touts on mopeds trying to take us to “cheap rooms” as we arrived on Kos this morning, and pedalled off to a hot sulfur spring that flows into the sea. It offers a choice of water temperatures for therapeutic wallowing, as it flows through several pools across the beach. The island is full of tourists on rented bikes, and there was a veritable Critical Mass heading to and from the springs, where we spent some time before returning to the town to find digs without any “help” from the damned touts.
Back in the town of Kos, we paid our respects to the ancient plane tree under which Hippocrates taught his students. Kos is where Hippocrates was born and lived. The plane tree is unlikely to be the same individual specimen under which the “Father of Modern Medicine” sat, because plane trees last a couple of hundred years and Hippocrates was here about 2,500 years ago. Still, it was a venerable specimen, likely in its final years and supported by a sturdy scaffolding. We’ll likely take another ferry to Patmos, either tomorrow or the day after.