Off-Bike Days in Chengdu

We were relieved when our bikes came out of the bus’s luggage hold undamaged. And it was great to be met by Michael and Dong, who led us by car (us cycling) to The Loft Hostel where they’d booked us a room on two hours notice. After helping us move in, they took us out for a fine dinner.

2009/03/10: Chengdu
Tuesday was spent doing errands, and enjoying what the big city usefully offered after two months of villages and smaller towns. There were outdoor gear shops and bike shops right near our hostel. We bought good insoles for my cycling shoes, genuinely effective Nivea sunscreen, dental floss, Sensodyne toothpaste, Oreos, and Dove chocolate bars. We’ve eaten a few western style meals and even had cappuccino! We had the bike repair place near the hostel clean our drive trains, rather than hunting for rags and making a mess in the hostel courtyard. The result was a better job than we’d have done ourselves. Thank you to “Firewall” at Banner Cloud.

IMG_5949 (2)

2009/03/11: San Xing Dui Museum
On Wednesday we visited the Sanxingdui Museum, taking taxi and then bus about 40 km north of Chengdu. The museum showcases a relatively recent archaeological find that allows a glimpse at the highly developed Shu State which existed here during the Bronze Age. To us as Vancouverites familiar with Haida and Coast Salish art forms, the style of the Shu bronze masks looked very familiar. We wondered how styles travel through time and across oceans, and whether Bill Reid had seen the Shu masks before he began to carve yellow cedar, to cast bronze, or to work with silver.


We also went out with Dong and Mike again, and the food was superb. Please don’t think that we are existing on meager rations of rice; quite the opposite is true, as you can see!


2009/03/12:  Pandas
This morning we went with others from the hostel to see Chengdu Base of Giant Panda Breeding and Research. The Pandas are fed in the morning, and we arrived in time to watch eighteen-month-old pandas munching bamboo, as well as six-month-old pandas receiving their bottled formula and vitamin supplements from hygienically gowned human “mothers.” There are only 1,000 giant pandas left on the planet, so to leave the species to continue only by natural reproduction would be to doom them to certain extinction. The exhibits and film explained the species’ evolution and natural history, as well as the centre’s work.


Chris took a video of the baby pandas being bottle fed. More panda photos and videos are in Chris’s Panda Flickr set. Enjoy!

We have a new route plan which will avoid currently closed areas. It will take us northeast to Guangyuan, and northwest toward Lanzhou in Gansu Province. From there, the most likely route will take us westward to Xinjiang passing north of the Qinlian Mountains. We’ve bought several new maps, and Mike has given us the name of a Uyghur travel agent in Kashgar.

We plan to leave Chengdu tomorrow morning, taking a bus at first to get beyond the busiest roads. We’ll need to get our visas renewed in about three weeks, and will get haircuts before then so we look less scruffy. Off we jolly well go again.


3 responses to “Off-Bike Days in Chengdu

  1. A most wonderful account of your adventure. It gives me hope that I too will soon be able to embark on such a “Marco Polo” style world journey. Travel safe and enjoy each moment.

  2. Mmm, the food sounds good. Will you be able to recreate any of it for us when you get back, Margo? Chris, I made a dairy-free chocolate ‘mousse’ that you will have to try when you get back. Hope all is well.

  3. Yes, two of those sculptures, in particular, are so incredibly “Bill Reid”. I wonder how they are connected? Are there any English interpretations in the museums?

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.